Glass door locks: hardware selection for frameless and framed glass doors

Glass doors need their own hardware family. Using a timber-door lock with adapters is the most common — and most expensive — mistake in this category.

Frameless vs framed

Frameless toughened glass doors carry patch fittings, clamps and a floor or wall lock, with any electronic module mounted on the glass or adjacent to it. Framed aluminium or steel glass doors behave more like conventional doors and accept narrow-backset locks and electric strikes. Identify which you have before quoting anything.

Glass thickness and drilling

Tempered glass cannot be drilled after tempering: holes must be specified before the glass is made. That single fact drives the whole project sequence. Confirm glass thickness (commonly 8, 10 or 12 mm) and the hole pattern required by the chosen fittings.

Locking options

• Patch lock or glass door lock with cylinder
• Electric strike or magnetic lock for access control
• Floor lock or bottom bolt for double doors
• Keypad or card reader module on the wall, wired to the electric lock
• Smart glass-door locks with app or code access for offices and shops

Specifications to confirm

• Glass thickness and whether it is already tempered
• Single or double door, and the gap between leaves
• Frame or frameless, and frame material
• Fail-safe (unlock on power loss) or fail-secure, as required by the fire or egress rules
• Power supply location and cable routing
• Finish that matches the existing fittings

Site reality

Glass work is unforgiving: order fittings and glass together from one coordinated specification, and have the installer confirm the hole pattern on a drawing before production. A glass panel that arrives with the wrong holes is scrap, not a warranty claim.